First presented in 1932 with the Reference 96, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the benchmark for classic men’s dress watches. The groundbreaking reference set the stage for nearly every piece Patek has released since, and became the blueprint for other brands’ approaches to classy men’s timepieces. Heavily influenced by the Bauhaus school, the Calatrava was then considered extremely modern with its minimalist, ‘less is more’ approach to watch design.
The 96 was also one of the first pieces the brand released after the Stern family purchased a majority share in Patek Philippe in the early ‘30s. In many respects, it is emblematic of the Stern family’s contributions to Patek. One of the earliest round watches Patek ever made, it was also the very first serially produced piece to receive its own reference.
In the years since 1932, Patek has released dozens of Calatrava references, each with its own idiosyncrasies. Almost all share the underlying DNA of the 96, prioritizing subtle elegance above all else.
In 1985, Patek Philippe was looking to distinguish itself in a post-Quartz Crisis era of the luxury watch market. The brand enlisted help from a brilliant Geneva-based ad man — Renée Bittel— to help Patek define itself for a new customer base. Bittel thought Patek Philippe needed a symbol for the brand — something that would capture the classic Patek aesthetic. Then-Patek President Philippe Stern asked Bittel what this would look like, and legend has it Bittel drew what would later become the Reference 3919, another Bauhaus design, this time incorporating a hobnail bezel.
The hobnail bezel first emerged in 1934 on the Reference 96D and Bittel recognized that its distinctive look was eye-catching — and classically Patek. Coupling the hobnail with a cream dial and black printed numerals, the 3919 quickly became the essence of the maison. Today, the 3919 represents one of the best values in neo-vintage Patek Philippe.
This particular 3919 is one of the rarest — and arguably, the coolest — examples. Executed in 18K yellow gold, this incredible piece has no lugs, and instead features an integrated bracelet with a beautiful finish. Patek’s skill in bracelet making is rarely discussed, but this bracelet is proof the brand has command of not only watchmaking, but also the jewelry elements of fine timepieces.
Measuring 33mm and featuring a hobnail bezel, an unsigned crown, and a sapphire crystal, it features a beautiful, gloss-cream dial with printed black ‘Arabic’ indices, a small sub-seconds register above 6 o’clock, and black ‘feuille’ handset. Its caseback still retains its service-center sticker.
These are not your run of the mill 3919s, and when they come up, they possess a particularly eccentric Patek personality you aren’t likely to find elsewhere!